COMPARATIVE STUDY OF STYLE ICONS IN WEST AND EAST DURING
1920’S AND 1930’S
AFTER THE
WORLD WAR (1914 TO 1918), WOMENS CLOTHING IN
PARTICULAR REVOLUTIONARY CHANGES.
ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT INFLUENCES WAS THE MOVEMENT TOWARDS EQUAL STATUS FOR
WOMEN,IN THE WORK PLACE,IN PRIVATE AND POLITICAL LIFE .DURING THE WAR ,AS MEN
WENT OFF TO FIGHT ,WOMEN TOOK ON JOBS FORMERLY FILLED BY MEN.WOMEN AND GIRLS
WHO PREVIOUSLY WORKED AS DOMESTIC SERVANTS TOOK ON JOBS IN MUNITIONS FACTORIES
,AND PERFORMED ADMINISTRATIVE WORK,TOOK WORK AS DRIVERS ,NURSES AND FARM
WORKERS . THEY VOLUNTEERED FOR ORGANIZATIONS LIKE THE RED CROSS AND JOINED THE
MILITARY.THE CONSTRICTION OF A CORSET WAS NO LONGER DESIRED.THE NEW LEADERS OF
FASHION WERE TO BE THEATRE AND MOVIE STARS.THE YEARS FROM 1924 TO 1929 WERE
DESCRIBED AS “THE ROARING TWENTIES.”
AT THAT
TIME THEIR WERE NO SIMILARITIES BETWEEN
EAST AND WEST,BUT I LIKED THE FLAPPER LOOK WHICH WAS FAMOUS IN THE WEST ,AND THAT IS WHY I HAVE
CHOOSEN THIS TOPIC.
DURING THIS
PERIOD WHERE THE FLAPPERS WERE IN FASHION,WHICH WAS IN THE WEST.AT THE SAME
TIME INDIA WAS FIGHTING FOR IT'S FREEDOM.
WORLD WAR
INFLUENCE THE FASHION. WARS AND SOCIAL CHANGES BROUGHT THE LAST RADICAL .THE
TYPE OF CLOTHING THAT SEEMED APPROPRIATE.SINCE WORLD WAR 1 AND WORLD WAR 2 ,MEN
AND WOMEN ‘S CLOTHS HAVE CHANGED .WOMENS CLOTHS SEEM TO HAVE CHANGED MORE
DURING THE TIME OF WAR .A SUCCESSFUL REVOLT BY WOMEN AGAINST SOCIAL AND
POLITICAL RESTRICTIONS LED TO DISAPPEARANCE OF PHYSICAL RESTRICTIONS OF THE
CORSET.
THE
COMMUNICATION DURING THIS PERIOD BOTH THE SPOKEN AND VISUAL WERE VERY GOOD ,AND
ALSO DURING THIS PERIOD MENS AND WOMENS STARTED ADMIRING THE FAMOUS FILM STARS
OF THIS PERIOD ,AND THEY BECOME THE IDOLS OF THE PEOPLES .WOMEN WANTED TO LOOK
LIKE ACTRESS THEY STARTED TO WEAR THE HAIRSTYLES ,MAKEUPS N CLOTHS . AFTER THE
WAR TIME FASHION,THE WAIST AND WIDE
SKIRT,THE NARROW ,LOOSE ,SHIFT DRESS EMERGED. THE LENGTH OF THE SKIRT BECAME
SHORTER BY 1920 THE MOSTLY ONE PIECE DRESSES WERE CALF-LENGTH. BY 1924 THE
SKIRT WAS AT THE KNEE AND BY 1927 IT HAD RISEN ABOVE THE KNEE .THE LENGTHENED
TOP OF THE DRESS HAD A STRAIGHT CUT SO THAT THE BUST AND WAIST IS NOT SEEN
.THEY ADOPTED THE ‘BOYISH FIGURE’.
CHANGES
DURING THIS PERIOD,THE MOVIES ,RADIO SHOWS STARTED ADVERTISING,AND POPULAR
MAGAZINES ALL HAD AN INFLUENCES ON THE LIVES OF THE 1920’S YOUTH WHO SAW
THEMSELVES LIKE THEIR IDOLS AND
DIFFERENT FROM THE OLDER GENERATIONS .THE YOUNG YOUTH OR YOUNG PEOPLE BEGAN TO
MODEL THEMSELVES ON MOVIE AND SPORTS STARS WHO REPRESENTED A GLAMOURS NEW AGE .
THEY
FOLLOWED THEIR IDOLS IN POSITIVES AND AS WELLAS IN NEGATIVE WAY LIKE THEY USE
BAD LANGUAGE, SMOKING ,DRINKING ,AND SELFISHNESS.
THE FLAPPER
OF 1920 ‘S, THE FLAPPERS STEREOTYPE IS ONE OF THE SHORT AND SHINED HAIR
,STRAIGHT LOOSE KNEE-LENGTH DRESSES WITH A DROPPED WAISTLINE, SILK OR RAYON
STOCKINGS WITH GARTERS,HEAVY MAKEUP,AND LONG BEADED NECKLACE .FLAPPERS ARE ALSO
ASSOCIATED WITH JAZZ AND 1920 DANCE LIKE
THE CHARLESTON.
WOMEN’S WEAR,DURING THIS PERIOD WERE,THE TABULAR
DRESSES OF THE TEENS HAD EVOLVED INTO A SIMILAR SILHOUETTE THAT NOW SPORTED
SHORTER SKIRTS WITH PLEATS , GATHERS ,AND SLITS TO ALLOW MOTIONS.THE STRAIGHT
LINE CHEMISE TOPPED BY THE CLOSE FITTING CLOCHE HAT BECAME UNIFORM OF THE DAY.
WOMENS WORE
THE BELL –SHAPED CLOCHE HAT PULLED RIGHT DOWN OVER THE FOREHEAD OVER THEIR
SMOOTHY OR WAVY SHORT LIKE BOBBED HAIRCUTS. THE TURBAN DECORATED WITH FEATHERS
WAS PREFERRED FOR FORMAL OCCASIONS. WOMENS SHOES WERE QUITE POINTED ,WHETHER
ELEGANT PUMPS ,HIGH HEELED STRAPS SHOES,OR CASUAL FLATS SHOES. SHORTS SKIRTS
REVEALED THE LEGS AND THEREFORE THE STOKINGS .SKIN –COLORED SILK OR ARTIFICIAL
SILK STOCKINGS WERE OFTEN DECORATED.WOMEN FAVOURED MULTI-STRANDS PEARL
NECKLACE,BRACELETS AND EARRINGS. COSTUMES JEWELLERY APPEARED ALONGSIDE GENUINE
JEWELLERY.
FAMOUS STYLE ICONS OF
1920-30’S WAS LOUISE BROOKS. MARY LOUISE BROOKS WHO IS KNOWN AS LOUISE BROOKS,
WAS BORN IN CHERRYVALE,KANSAS ,SHE WAS THE DAUGHTER OF LEONARD PORTER BROOKS,A
LAWYER.SHE WAS AN AMERICAN DANCER,MODEL,SHOW GIRL AND SILENT FILM ACTRESS,NOTED
FOR POPULARIZING LIKE THE BOBBED
HAIRCUT. LOUISE BROOKS WAS THE FAMOUS STYLE ICON OF 1920’S .SHE HAS GIVEN MAY
OF THE HIT FILMS ,THE FILMS WERE ‘THE DAIRY OF THE LOST GIRL.SHE STARRED IN 17
SILENT FILMS AND ,LATE IN LIFE,AUTHORED A MEMOIR, LULU IN HOLLYWOOD.
DURING THAT
TIME IN INDIA ZUBEIDA BEGUM WAS FAMOUS ,ZUBEIDA BEGUM DHARAJGIR WAS AN INDIAN FILM
ACTRESS DURING THIS PERIOD .SHE ACTED IN THE FIRST TALKIE MOVIE ALAM ARA .HER
FILM INCLUDE EARLY HITS DEVDAS AND SAGAR MOVIE TONES FIRST TALKIE,MERI JAAN. SHE
WAS FROM SURAT. SHE WAS THE DAUGHTER OF FATIMA BEGUM. SHE BECOME INDIAN FIRST
WOMAN FILM DIRECTOR. ZUBEIDA BLOSSOMED AND WOWED EVERYONE WITH HER SINGING
DANCING AND HER SPEECH .FROM MY POINT OF VIEW I THINK THEIR WERE SIMILARITIES
IN EAST AND WEST LIKE LOUISE BROOK WAS ALSO
AN ACTOR SAME WAS THE ZUBEIDA SHE WAS AN INDIAN ACTRESS .THEY BOTH GAVE HIT
FILM DURING THIS PERIODS ,AND ALSO THEY BOTH WERE OR LOVED TO DANCE.
LAUTANINDONESIA.COM
IN WEST THE FASHION WAS
INFLUENCED BY THE WORLD WAR AND AT THAT TIME IN INDIA THE FIRST NON
CO-OPERATION MOVEMENT STARTED THE NON CO-OPERATION MOVEMENT WAS A SIGNIFICANT
PHASE OF THE INDIAN STRUGGLE FOR FREEDOM FROM BRITISH RULE. THIS MOVEMENT LASTED FROM SEPTEMBER 1920 TO FEBRUARY
1922.IT WAS LED BY MAHATMA GANDHI AND WAS SUPPORTED BY THE INDIAN NATIONAL
CONGRESS.
DURING THIS MOVEMENT THE
PROTESTORS THE USE TO REFUSE TO BUY THE BRITISH GOODS THEY ADOPT THE USE OF
LOCAL HANDICRAFT ,PICKETS LIQUOR SHOPS,AND THEY ALWAYS TRIED TO UPHOLD THE
RESPECT , INDIAN VALUES OF HONOR AND INTEGRITY.
A SPECIAL SESSION OF THE
CONGRESS WAS HELD AT CALCUTTA IN SEPTEMBER 1920 UNDER THE PRESIDENT SHIP OF
LALA LAJPAT RAI .THE NON OPERATION RESOLUTION WAS MOVED BY THE GREAT MAHATMA
GANDHI AND IT WAS CARRIED BY THE MAJORITY. AND THIS CLEARLY STARTED THE NON CO-OPERATION MOVEMENT ….
THE INDIANS VERY IRRITATED BY
THE FACT THAT THE BRITISH NOTHING FOR THE PRESERVATION OF THE KHALIFAT. THE
INDIANS STARTED KHALIFAT MOVEMENT FOR THE PRESERVATION OF THE RELIGIOUS OFFICE
OF THE KHALIFAT. MAHATMA GANDHI THOUGHT THAT HINDU-MUSLIM UNITY COULD BE
ACHIEVED BY TAKING UP THE CAUSE OF KHALIFAT.
AT THAT TIME THERE
WERE NO SIMILARITIES, AS THE POLITICAL AND ECONOMIC CONDITION WAS VERY
DIFFERENT IN THE WEST AND THE EAST. ON ONE HAND, WHERE IN THE WEST,IT WAS AN
END TO THE WORLD WAR, IN INDIA PEOPLE WERE STILL FIGHTING FOR INDEPENDENCE,BUT
THE BRITISH INFLUENCE HAD BEGUN TO BE FELT IN INDIA.
BIBLOGRAPHY……
1]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-cooperation_movement
2] http://www.chandrakantha.com - Music of India
3] Fashion-era.com
4] Preservatives.com.
5] Sen-gook.com
No comments:
Post a Comment